Part bottle shop, part bistro, part neighbourhood hangout… three years in and The Recreation has settled into a comfortable groove, offering big flavoured hits-with-a-twist that complement the terrific selection of worldly wines on the shelf to drink in or grab-and-go. 

The bread remains reason alone to visit – a chewy, fluffy crunchy-crusted slab on which to slather vibrant house-churned butter – but the highlights that follow are many.

A densely meaty and gamey foie-gras studded pâté en croûte gives the best French restaurants a run for their money, while a plate of crunchy veg with creamy bagna cauda is an equally on pointe opener.

A deeply rich and decadent ox tail parmentier is rib-sticking winter comfort of the highest order, with braised lamb teamed with roasted beetroot and eggplant a triumph of classic flavours, elevated. A punchy XO sauce adds an Asian lilt to a piece of crisp-skinned hapuka, and a silverbeet gratin that’s crunchy and creamy in equal measure is the very best way to eat your greens.

Approachable, amenable service keeps the busy dining room humming, while hefty cutlery and elegant stemware speak to an offering at once casual yet perfectly precise. Add a wine list that’s a true joy and you have the perfect local that’s worth a visit from afar.

Must Eat Dish: Baked hapuka XO sauce