Regatta may be a relatively new restaurant, but it once housed former award-winning restaurant Pier. Now one of our most influential chefs, Damien Pignolet (Claude’s and Bistro Moncur), and respected restaurateur Peter Nield are bringing the magic to the Rose Bay water’s edge.

Windows wrap around this slender wharf dining room and the ceiling, with its felt fish scales, acknowledges the sea. The feel is more top button open than tweed jacket, but the service is spot on and sincere. Plus the wine list is worth the trip alone. Pignolet’s food is exceptionally executed and relies on simple, proven flavour combinations.

Figs balance sheets of wagyu bresaola. Salmon roe adds ocean pop to sugar-cured ocean trout. NZ king salmon arrives atop a potato galette and bold anchovy butter. Pignolet’s Ranger’s Valley sirloin, fries with café de Paris is bang on — blushingly pink inside and the Café de Paris butter is beautiful. Then a passionfruit and praline soufflé adds an exclamation to a cracking feed. Regatta is honest and stunning in its simplicity – just like the views of the bay.

Must eat: Scallop souffle, lobster bisque sauce