Sitting beneath Fortitude Valley’s stylish Alex Perry Hotel, the sparsely decorated Restaurant Dan Arnold with Scandi-style timber chairs, unclothed tables and soft drapes is more akin to a casual cafe than the high-end eatery it is designed to be.

But perhaps this is its appeal, with patrons able to enjoy all the luxuries of a fine dining experience without the formality and stuffiness that often seem to accompany it.

The restaurant offers two set menus, a three-course ($80) and a five-course ($110), both with a series of amuse bouche, as well as the carte blanche ($160) — eight courses chosen by the chef. A select number of dishes can also be ordered individually, but that would be depriving yourself of a truly special culinary experience.

Having worked in Michelin-starred restaurants across France, Brisbane boy Arnold delivers an ethereally light, clean take on traditional French fare. Heavy sauces give way to delicate touches such as in an entree of slippery, soft, Asian mushrooms suspended in a pearl barley risotto with a subtle acid hit — perhaps from white wine — to cut through all that umami richness. Or in mains like pork loin served just pink, with squirts of black garlic, clusters of charred corn kernels and whole podded broad beans atop oozy polenta with a zesty herb oil and pork jus to tie it all together. It’s homely peasant food elevated with cheffy technique. The delicacy of the dishes is well paired to a quality wine list of French and Australian vino, with bottles starting from $70.

While service could be a little more relaxed, Restaurant Dan Arnold is an establishment with something special.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Mushrooms with pearl barley risotto, pork