But Covid changed all that and now he can fill his 45- seat dining room on a weeknight with guests simply choosing from three ($100) or five ($150) course menus or a chef’s selection ($200).

Word has spread of his exemplary classical, technique-driven, flavour-first line-up of dishes (maybe an entree of The Falls Farm carrot with a lemongrass and ginger emulsion, a main course of fallow deer served two ways and a dessert of the most delicate chocolate cigars filled with Jerusalem artichoke and hazelnut) and there’s nothing else like it around.

The five-course option might add coral trout and wagyu brisket courses. Included in all menus is a stunning line-up of complimentary amuse-bouche; three types of house-made breads with two butters; a pre-dessert and petit fours. Throughout all this, service is on the ball and knowledgeable but far from stuffy.

The wine list is broad and there’s a cheese trolley for those who want to tack on another course. Adjustments have been made to add warmth to the interior as well as bigger tables, enhancing the enjoyment of the work of a gifted and generous chef.

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