It’s hard to imagine Sydney without the subterranean French kiss that is Hubert, and yet it’s only been around for 18 months. A restaurant we needed that captures the very essence of the restaurant ideal where friends congregate to relax the shoulders, bend the arm and pull on a bib at the communal table; and it’s ok to swing from the rafters. Well, perhaps not, but they expect you to loosen the tie and have fun.

The formidable Swillhouse Group (Shady Pines Saloon, Baxter’s Inn, Frankie’s Pizza) have created the ultimate debaucherous post-war French bistro and bar and it’s become the good times heartbeat of sin city. Descend the spiral staircase past an astounding miniature booze collection in glass cabinets, and stop on the first level for a pre-dinner tipple at the new Bridge bar.

Dive further into this monolithic den that houses two eat-at bars and a dining room that looks like it’s frozen in time. Fans lazily rotate above diners, red velvet curtains and dusty bottles run the perimeter and there’s such a sense of a yesteryear that you wouldn’t be surprised if some cancan girls in fishnets came high-kicking from a doorway a la Crazy Horse.

The hospitality is fresher than a bunch of tulips and the food is what solid food comas are made of thanks to chef Dan Pepperell, who has bought the big umami A-game of Japanese cuisine to underpin his thing for French bistro staples.

Maple Syrup jelly adds dimension to smooth-as-a-babies-bum duck parfait. Fermented celeriac brings a twang to Spanner crab remoulade and snails come lathered in XO sauce. While generous serves of bread sauce and chicken fricassee, and a whole Murray cod with burnt butter are better suited to big groups.

It’s boisterous, a kind of organised chaos of natural energy that’s quite addictive, so buy the ticket and take the ride.

Must eat dish: Wagyu topside tartare, classic condiments, French fries
Instagram: @restauranthubert