But cheese, I guess, comes in many guises, so a little imagination could just make it work. I’ll admit to being a sceptic.

The place is whimsically called Fromage [The Cow] and inhabits the ground floor of a cute old building in the heart of Milton’s Park Rd.

The first thing you see is a glamorous cheese room: walk-in, glass-walled, a small partition for curing hams and a bounty of world cheeses. To the left there’s a smallish counter for coffee and sweet things, and to the rear the dining room.

It was busy and the capable staff flitted about like bees, orderly but hurried. Things happened at a good pace. It was good service.

So, a cheese-based menu.

For some dishes – fondue, mac ’n’cheese (truffled pecorino, no less), and souffle – the cheese is the hero.

With others it’s more subtly employed. Slow-cooked lamb shoulder for two ($57), for example, with sauce arrabbiata, taleggio (there’s the cheese) polenta and ricotta salad (there it is again). Or crab risotto ($28) with tomme and lemon mascarpone – beautifully conceived, perfectly cooked and rather decadent.

There’s detail in the cooking. Olives stuffed with goat’s cheese, coated in a large crumb then deep fried ($9) were pristine – crunchy outside, appropriately gooey within.

I watched a pork cutlet ($37) land on the table next door and I wanted it: thick and juicy, caramelised on top, its bone resting on a wedge of crumbed and fried brie, a white bean and pancetta cassoulet beneath.

Meanwhile, I tackled the twice-cooked cheese souffle with black garlic bread ($22). It showed restraint, aiming for the pungency and cut of the cheese flavours rather than the goo and richness. And there was a pile of rocket to the side for freshness.

There’s a creative drinks list (craft beers and a global collection of wines). Only three sweet wines and all that cheese? A great flavour combination is when good botrytis wine meets salty cheese, and I’d love to see a little more dabbling with the pairings here.

The idea of theming with cheese could go so badly wrong, but Fromage treads lightly, weaving the theme quite subtly through its menu. Quirky? Sure, but it works.

Originally published on couriermail.com.au