It lives in the space occupied until earlier this year by Che Asado.

Physically, little has changed, aside from a freshening of decor to a more Mexican feel. It’s the same very open corner space, more outdoors than in, with heaps of people-watching potential.

Mucho is a fun place to dine for a weekday lunch and must be even more so at nights and on the weekend.

The vibe is cheerful and relaxed, with service efficient but appropriately informal.

The drinks options begin with a list of margaritas and sangria, plus 11 Mexican beers and a handful of decent locals.

The wine side of things is a bit ho-hum – a few Argentines with the rest coming from Australia and New Zealand. I didn’t expect to see Mexican wine (it exists, albeit not in Australia), but there’s an abundance of Spanish and South American wines available.

I have no such reservations about the menu – it’s cracking.

It’s mostly “pop” Mexican, with a handful of very traditional surprises, and a little bit of clever contemporary Tex-Mex/Aus- Mex in the mix.

Tostadas ($15 for three) bedded with whipped avocado and piled with Moreton Bay bug, topped with avruga (quasi-caviar) are sensational, generous and seriously delicious.

And there’s a section of the menu called The Mother of All Tacos, which is basically a clever take on the fascination with large meats, often slow-cooked, and presented as share plates. There’s chipotle-braised beef brisket ($48), crispy pork belly “al pastor” ($49, a traditional and intriguing Mexican take on the doner kebab) and slow-cooked lamb shoulder with green mole ($56). All three come with tortillas and condiments.

There are smaller dishes, too, such as quesadillas (pork adobo, $21; sweet potato, $19) and the high-fusion, cheesy, truffled chicken ($22), a grown-up toasted sanger in Mexican guise. Smaller tacos come as singles or three for $20: pumpkin, haloumi, pepitas and chipotle dressing ($6.50); pork belly with pineapple salsa ($7); and a wonderful wagyu with onion, horseradish and salsa verde ($7.50).

In purist terms Mucho Mexicano is streets ahead of the many suburban atrocities that used to pass as Mexican diners, but it’s also an airbrushed, silky offering tailored for the South Bank crowd.

That said, the meats are spectacular – someone in the kitchen knows what to do with brisket, pork belly and the rest of the big proteins. I like it.

This review originally appeared on dailytelegraph.com.au.