Three generations of the Perry family have come together to pull off an unmissable dining experience in Double Bay, Sydney.

The newest addition to Pallas House takes its name from Neil Perry’s mother, Margaret. And judging by the stunning $5 million dining room, it’s clear she was a woman of taste.

The 170-seat corner restaurant has been given a sleek fit-out by industrial designer David Caon and Acme & Co that blends blush banquettes with taupe tiles and neutral floors and walls. Lozenge-shaped light sconces cast a soft and subdued glow, or could that just be the aura of Neil Perry? The star chef can be spotted most nights presiding over the pass or working the room, flanked by floor manager (and daughter) Josephine Perry Clift.

Perry’s menu is all about modern Australian fare, but it’s his emphasis on the producer that really stands out. Only the best-of-the-best makes the cut, from Blackmore Wagyu steaks cooked over the coals to super-fresh seafood, caught just 24 hours before, by award-winning Corner Inlet fisherman, Bruce Collis.

Is there a more Double Bay dish than Paspaley pearl meat? The sophisticated starter is made from the adductor muscle of the famed Paspaley pearl oyster, and is actually a very tasty by-product of the luxury jewellery business. Perry serves it simply – sliced sashimi style and dressed in a punchy white soy ponzu.

Perry peps up the classic bistro dish du jour – steak tartare – with a fiery red chilli paste that will make every steak tartare henceforth feel like it’s missing something. It’s paired with stained glass discs of golden fried potato that are worlds away from the ones you scoffed in lockdown.

Then there’s the rotisserie chicken, seasoned with Middle Eastern spices with smoke flavours infused to the bone, served with a smoky eggplant puree and almond dressing. If the waitstaff try to talk you into ordering the charred cucumbers in yoghurt on the side, we suggest you listen.

For dessert, an old-school jelly doughnut is as good as it gets – soft, chewy, and set-to-bursting with homemade strawberry jam and vanilla cream.

But in truth, it was kindness and generosity that the real Margaret Perry was known for – and this is also something that you’ll find at the restaurant.

The obvious care and attention that has gone into creating a flawless experience, the warmth of the staff and the generosity of the food, will make every guest feel like a member of the family.