For the owners of this pumping, graffiti-clad, casual pan-Asian eatery, flavour is everything. That’s why their business model sees guests order at the counter and collect their own water so the savings can be put into creating the most delicious food possible. An approach that’s paying dividends.

Whether it’s a pimped up Japanese version of fries smothered in finger-licking katsu curry sauce and dashi spices or the char sui pork – sweet, sticky and just pink in the centre served with Thai chilli jam, a snow pea salad, pickled cucumber, fried garlic shallots and duck fat pancakes to wrap it all – the complexity and nuance to each dish is that of a fine diner. No more so, however, than in the 10-hour coconut braised beef where the bovine is simmered into sweet submission, suspended in a thick curry layered with spice and aromatics that will have diners thinking about it long after devouring the final mouthful.

Vegan, peanut-free and gluten-free menus are also available, with all well-matched to a constricted but solid drinks list running from cider to sake. While the service may be minimal, it’s fast and friendly, making this a budget-friendly dining destination locals rightfully queue for.

Exceptional dish: 10-hour coconut braised beef