Nestled on the sand with surfers carving up the waves metres from the tables and panoramic views up to the jagged Surfers skyline, Rick Shores justifies a visit based on outlook alone. But order, for example, the luscious lamb rump encrusted with sesame and seaweed, and paired with rich, bone marrow butter and you’ll be settling in for the long haul even after the surfers have packed up.

This is assured food inspired by a variety of Asian cuisines reinterpreted in fresh ways. Starters (from the bar snack menu) might be the signature fried bug roll with gem lettuce and mayo turbocharged with Sriracha; crab and prawn dumplings with bonito flakes, or a pork belly slider enlivened by white kimchi and Sichuan caramel. Yellow curry of king prawns is a mild but deeply fragrant take on a Thai favourite, while twice-cooked duck with fermented plum, rosella, kohlrabi, radish and five spice offers a hint of Chinese in its compelling combination.

Team all this with sparky, adept service and a decent wine list with an engaging by-the-glass selection and Rick Shores is far more than a room with a stunning view. Desserts stay on task, too, with chocolate parfait teamed with malted parsnip and brown rice miso, yoghurt foam with ginger crumble, coriander and apple elements and pavlova with shards of coconut parfait, semi-dried pineapple and a spiced rum cream. The location is unbeatable – Rick Shores is perhaps the ultimate beach canteen.

Must-eat dish: Fried bug rolls
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