Sitting in a light-filled dining room, gazing out across the sea, sampling locally-sourced seafood dishes inspired by a parade of global cuisines might well be the definitive Rick Stein experience. Appropriate, then, that the restaurant within Bannister’s coastal Mollymook hotel that offers it, nestled on a hill on the NSW South Coast about three hours from Sydney, bears the chef and author’s name. 

Manifested by head chef Ryan Smith, recipes inspired by Stein’s televised global journeys are reshaped into comforting bistro fare, with a vibrant mussel masala sitting alongside spanner crab linguine, fish tacos and a mixed sashimi plate on the entrée menu alone. 

The thematic constants here are Stein and seafood, and excepting slight and occasional missteps – the whole steamed snapper arrives a touch overcooked with only a weak Chinese dressing to rectify things – flavours from every corner of the globe are executed with deft confidence.

Dishes range from delicate (two prawns stacked on a mild-but-delicious Indian coconut curry) to homely (the truffle-laced fish pie), and while prices are at a premium, there’s no denying the quality of the produce or the amiability of the service. 

There’s an impressive list of Australian options for anyone wanting wine by the glass, and bottles are listed conveniently from ‘lightest to fullest’ for those wanting to imbibe more significantly. 

A meal at Rick Stein might not fully replicate feasting on grilled bream in a fishing hut on the Mexican coast, but it’s a satisfying pescatarian experience befitting the restaurant’s globetrotting namesake.

Must Eat Dish: Warm shellfish with parsley, chilli, olive oil, garlic and lemon juice