Start with the edamame bunged on the barbie until charry and deliciously smoky with every salty taste. Ruby-coloured Australian bluefin tuna was a real treat, as was the seared salmon – supple flesh countered by a fine layer of crisp, smoke-kissed skin and a mustard miso that should be bottled and sold.

But skewered meat is Robata’s game and the binchotan is where it happens. Unlike other grills, these coals won’t impart flavour, which means the ingredients do the heavy lifting and take you to flavour town. Yakitori (chicken on a stick) lets you build a meal out of the broken down bird. There’s breast, thigh, wings and, for the adventurous, chicken hearts dusted with fiery chilli and beating with umami depth.

Larger plates include a golden crumbed pork katsu, balanced with a refreshing cabbage slaw and nostril-twitching yellow wasabi mustard (karashi).

Save your after-dinner calories for the black sesame and green tea parfait. The two-toned green Weis bar-looking creation has a luxuriously silky semifreddo texture and loud matcha and toasted sesame flavours. Just like Robata itself, it’s a riot of fun.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.