It’s the loudest thing to hit sleepy Hawksburn village. It’s certainly the brightest. And, judging by the full house this cold, midweek night, right now it’s also the hottest.

Rock Sugar is the latest venue adding to the growing canon of funky pan- Asian diners that have taken the city by storm. Here, with Kam McManamey on the woks, it’s a mod-Thai, share-plate affair bathed in neon purple. The Spotify mix gets the party started with Mariah Carey’s Emotions, while the bubble cup machine helps it along with #rocktails making boozy heroes of lychee, coconut, ginger and pandan.

McManamey (ex-BangPop and Botherambo) is a dab hand at turning chilli-fired Thai flavours into cooler zingy versions that keep the crowds coming back for more.

Dishes such as the massaman spring rolls, where Flinders Island lamb cooked down into coconut-sticky submission is wrapped in a thick pastry blanket, might not be authentic, but they’re most certainly tasty and highlight a focus on prime produce worlds away from the streets of Bangkok.

Chilli caramel-drizzled chicken ribs fried to a crunch make good friends with a frosty Singha beer poured on tap, while one-bite wonders to start include vibrant smoked ocean trout spiked with kaffir lime and dotted with roe on a betel leaf – ready to wrap and roll.

McManamey’s massaman curry is generous with chunks of slow-cooked beef, his red duck even better for those seeking some heat, but it’s the baby snapper, crunchy coated and standing to attention baring its fangs for the camera, that’s the menu’s real Insta-hit.

When your martini is frocked up with fairy floss, or comes as vodka- drizzled chocolate sorbet spiked with scud chilli, you know Rock Sugar has fun times writ large, which the bubbly staff help deliver. It’s fun, it’s fast, it’s full. Hawksburn is rocking.