The rise of quality suburban eateries has been a real boon, but the new Bondi local, Rocker, may steal the limelight.

It’s hardly surprising, as co-owner Darren Robertson is part of the posse behind Three Blue Ducks that raised our expectation of everyday eats. Here with co-owner Cameron Northway (Sweet & Chilli), they’ve brought in butcher-turned- chef Stuart Toon, front of house star Breanna Lawler and wine wizard Chris Morrison who’s delivered a short, smart and adventurous drinks list.

In the former Hill Eatery digs, the 100-seater is part bar (there’s negroni on tap), part restaurant and is open all day. Packed in tight, the dining room features blue tabletops, blond wooden chairs and hanging greenery. There’s a friendly, drop-in feel in the dimly lit bar. Have a plate of oysters or stay for a feast.

In the kitchen, Robertson and Toon lean on European influences and, although it fits with the new wave of dining, there are a few pleasing detours.

Take the octopus. Chefs have become so obsessed with the large WA occies that baby octopus has been practically forgotten on menus. Here they’re tossed in creme fraiche, nasturtium and preserved citrus. The tiny, charred tentacles are crisp and a sheer joy.

Pumpkin, sage and burnt butter arrive entwined in little elbows (macaroni), with generous pecorino shavings making it feel like a fancy mac ’n’ cheese. Then, pretty pink slices of flat iron steak and sweet burnt leek go head to head for hero of the dish.

Vegetables feature in abundance too. Beets partner with radicchio and labneh, while mint and burnt yoghurt bolster the broccoli. Although desserts are thin on the ground, salted rye and treacle tart is an absolute death-row dish.

Rocker is giving the crowd exactly what it wants – great food, good times and incredible value for money.