Ride the latest wave at Bondi, and you’re guaranteed to have a rocking time. Though, with the pedigree of co-owner Darren Robertson (Three Blue Ducks) it’s hardly surprising that new Bondi local Rocker is raising the expectations of everyday eats.

In the former Hill Eatery digs, this 100-seater is part bar (yes, they have negroni on tap), part restaurant and is open all day. Blue tabletops, blonde-wood chairs and hanging greenery deliver a friendly, drop-in feel, and for a bit more intimacy there’s a dimly lit bar. So you can choose your own adventure – have a plate of oysters or stay for a feast.

In the kitchen, Robertson and head chef Stuart Toon rely on a backbone of European influences but the focus is on letting quality produce tell its own story. Gorgeous grilled baby octopus is tossed in creme fraiche, nasturtium and preserved citrus. Pumpkin, sage and burnt butter arrive entwined in macaroni with generous pecorino shavings. Then blushing slabs of flat iron steak find an alluring ally in sweet burnt leek.

But it’s not just the pleasures of the flesh – vegetables feature in abundance, too. Labne underpins beets and radicchio, while broccoli gets a boost from mint and burnt yoghurt. Just save room for the chef’s signature salted rye and treacle tart – it’s a decadently delightful finale. Surf’s up, and Rocker is riding the crest by giving the crowd exactly what it wants – great food and good times.

Must-eat dish: Flat iron steak, burnt leek, greens & mustard seeds
Instagram: @rockerbondi