If there is a more opulent and gasp-inducing restaurant in Australia, please let us know, we’d love to see it.

From the moment you step inside the heritage-listed former bank with the colossal marble pillars, glass chandeliers and overwhelmingly cavernous dining room, you’re swept into one of our truly global restaurants — and owner Neil Perry’s finest.

It’s such a gorgeous and glamorous space, and yet by day it’s the go-to for the business wolves, but by night all walks of life howl in excitement as they revel in Perry and chef Corey Costelloe’s incredible ethos of best produce and simple cookery. It is the epitome of the gastronomic art of sophistication in simplicity. A raw bar offers up a cracking crudo of rock flathead, Hiramasa kingfish and yellowfin tuna, before Kinkawooka mussels are steamed with fennel sofrito and sobrassada. Hand-cut fettuccine gets a big slap of wagyu bolognese and a gorgeous roast Burrawong chook comes lathered in a sage butter. But the extraordinary beef selection is pretty hard to avoid, including the David Blackmore’s full blood wagyu sirloin.

Must eat: King George whiting