Long lunches, late suppers, zero birthdays, the boss busting out the corporate credit card – life is good at Rockpool.

Neil Perry’s flagship Melbourne restaurant remains a jewel in the casino’s crown, this sure bet seating a day and night procession of diners who’ll admire the open kitchen with its flurry of flames and small army of chefs on their way to their table.

The menu is long and lovely, championing steak and seafood that’s lovingly sourced and expertly treated. King prawns are simply split down the middle and grilled, while local scallops swimming in herb and garlic butter are gently torched to coax maximum flavour.

But you’re probably here for the beef, dry-aged Wagyu or Cape Grim sirloin, fillet, rump and rib-eye from the woodfired grill. Whatever the cut, it’ll be flawlessly cooked and meltingly tender with a charred crust and blushing centre that are usually worth the price tag, which can reach $125.

Side dishes also star, like the heart-stoppingly good speck-laced mac and cheese and the potato and cabbage gratin.

If you have any change left, finish with a coffee ($6.50!) and dessert, perhaps passionfruit pav or a squat chocolate doughnut with raspberry ice cream, or petit fours, such as a tray of intense after-dinner mints.

Service is spot on, from breaking down the tome of a wine list and explaining the steaks to making a fuss of anyone celebrating a milestone.

The room has had a slight refresh, but remains low on lighting and high on class. Bargains won’t be found here, but this is special-occasion dining, or for those fabulous times when you’re not responsible for the bill.

Must eat dish: Cape Grim dry-aged steak
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