It might have rock’n’roll roots, but this is no Hard Rock Cafe concept bar. There’s a cool New York vibe to the latest occupant of the 1928 Prahran Post Office, which lands between boozer and fine diner, with exec chef Declan Carroll working his own wood-fire grill to great effect after four years at Rockpool Bar & Grill.

The menu suits snacking, sharing or feasting. A bar menu executes faves such steak frites and a burger, but head to the restaurant for a long and lovely list of meat, seafood and vege dishes — most turned out on the grill — and stellar sides, such as mac and cheese with speck ($14).

Open with pork scratchings ($5), crunchy, salty savoury puffs to get the party started.

There are beef options aplenty, showing the heft of Aussie producers, seeing different cuts teamed with classic sauce options.

The 300g O’Connor’s scotch ($48) was cooked with care and precision over flames, a salted, charred crust good armour for a blushingly beautiful interior, well rested and sliced to serve. With a creamy yet tart bernaise, it was simple and utterly delicious.

The beef rib ($39) was a melting moment. A grain-fed short rib was slow-cooked on the bone and finished on the grill to impart smoke and char, and given plenty of sauce with a beef jus and a vibrant chimichurri. Slices of beer-pickled onion added depth. A cracking dish.

Desserts aren’t to be missed — glorious creations by pastry chef Aristo, also ex-Rockpool, such as the dense, decadent dark chocolate mousse slice ($16), adorned with caramelised hazelnuts.

A weekend bottomless brunch ($39) gives two hours to knock back mimosas, bellinis, bloody Marys and Aperol spritzes. There are lots of worthy wines, with premium pours from the Coravin ($13-$25) and local pinot noirs to compliment those steaks. Ditto cocktails, such as a gin Old Fashioned. Milk coffee is from Canberra roaster Ona.

Engaging, good-natured and informative service from greeting to goodbye. Service was a proper highlight of dining here.

Exposed brick, curved upholstered booths and dark timber give a masculine Manhattan clubby feel. There’s room for 190, well divided between front bar and restaurant at the back.

Prahran is full of bars and cafes, but a chic room, perfectly pitched service and fab fire-touched food where provenance matters make Angus & Bon a chart-topper.

This review originally appeared on heraldsun.com.au.