Following its successful pop-up, Roco Ramen has taken up residence in the former Fleet digs as its own restaurant concept. Ramen master Daiki Shigeta has returned on the tools and drinks guru Robert Mudge expertly shakes and pours Japanese-inspired cocktails, whisky and sake. It’s the same sophisticated Scandi-inspired space, but with new cosy booths and no set menu, you can settle in to choose your own adventure.

The evening might start with cured sardines or Kushiyaki highlights such as yakitori-style chicken thigh with yuan glaze and yuzu kosho or braised ox-tongue with spicy miso and lime grilled to tender perfection. The hero is ramen, though, and it’s one of the most elegant, nuanced and flavoursome you will ever slurp. In the classic Tokusei, perfectly chewy handmade rye noodles are suspended in a wonder broth of 12-hour slow-cooked free-range pork bones and trotters, apples and dried sardines.

Vegetarians are catered for with Yasai (roasted onion and shiitake) miso. For a walk on the wild crustacean side, there’s chef favourite Ebi-Dashi Spicy Tan Tan. A malty, stone-grilled sweet potato ice cream with sour mandarin sorbet and cumquats is a superb palate cleanser.

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