Tex-Mex has long dominated Mexican restaurants in Australia, the heavy, cheesy concoctions a world away from the bright, fresh flavours found in the land south of the US border. Which is a shame, as that’s what you want to eat on a hot day by the beach if you’re looking for something more interesting than fish and chips.

The team from Dunes in Palm Beach know this, opening Rosa in October. This Tulum-inspired restaurant on an unloved stretch of main road, but just a block from the beach, took over a long-established venue incidentally called Tex Mex.

The newest incarnation is more cool than kitsch, with hacienda vibes, whitewashed walls, terracotta tiles and the odd cactus for colour.

Rosa isn’t traditionally Mexican – there’s a soft-shell crab betel leaf taco on the menu – but it’s a sign of the changing of the guards from stodgy, cheese-covered fare to fresh and flavoursome.

It’s made for boozy long lunches. At an early dinner booking, we arrived to see a large table still laughing and lingering after a very merry festive celebration. 

It’s easy to see why when perusing the drinks list, there are five kinds of margaritas on offer, including a spicy pineapple and Aperol version, plus options including a mezcal negroni.

It’s a given that Mexican restaurant meals start with corn chips to scoop up guacamole, but it would be a shame to bypass the woodfired flat bread at Rosa. 

The menu is share style, most of it doesn’t require cutlery and half of it is licked by flame, either in the woodfired oven or charcoal Josper grill, elevating simple dishes with a smoky element.

Take the al pastor tacos, they’re better than most thanks to pork pieces that boast beautifully crispy edges. Slightly charred kernels on the corn ribs are brightened with jalapeno and lime butter and creamy queso fresco.

Fatty lamb ribs are made to be eaten with your fingers, the sharp chimmi churri cutting through the richness as does colourful pickled watermelon slaw.

Not everything has been touched by fire. The most interesting thing about the deep-fried wings is the accompanying mango hot sauce, but as a bottle of it is on the table, skip the stodge in favor of lighter plates to balance out all that smoky richness, such as prawn tostadas.

The sliced prawns are mixed with diced sweet and sour cucumber, slivers of fiery red chili and topped with creamy avocado.

Mexican Gaytime is a play on the servo favourite. A rectangular block of vanilla ice cream is given texture and crunch from crushed tortillas and pepitas plus extra sweetness from dulce du leche. 

Rosa is more Mexican-inspired than traditional fare but it’s fresh, fun and what you want to eat by the beach. Grab a group of friends, ditch the cutlery and bring your Opal card to catch the B-Line home so you can make the most of the margarita menu. 

Related review Why Mona Vale’s beachside Basin Dining Room is making waves