If your idea of dining heaven features homely cooking, warm service and little chance of bill shock, ascend the stairs to Rosa’s Canteen.

Tucked away in the CBD’s legal district, this mezzanine space is tall and airy, with louvre windows overlooking leafy treetops and a sleek and modern fit out that belies its rustic soul.

Sicilian-born hairdresser-turned-chef Rosa Mitchell is the namesake dynamo, her cooking synonymous with bold Italian flavours, which prevail here in the dual delights of pasta and dessert.

Twisted casarecci cling to a rich beef shin ragu, while ricotta-plumped ravioli cushion a robust pork and fennel sauce. These bowls are best enjoyed with an Italian red, good value here by the glass.

The crisp and creamy ricotta-filled, pistachio-dipped cannoli is justly renowned, as are the tart specials, like the silky chocolate version irresistibly cooling on the pass.

Cheeky and obliging service brings a smile, as will the well-priced bill, for Rosa’s Canteen is a study in big-hearted hospitality.

Must eat dish: Ravioli with pork and fennel
Instagram: @rosascanteen