No matter how many times you’ve stepped into Rosetta’s opulent dining room before, her sheer beauty never fails to wow. Flamboyant as Milan’s La Scala, she’s filled to pussy’s bow with marble, mahogany, red velvet and glittering chandeliers. Rosetta is drop-dead gorgeous and entices for dress-up dinners and flashy bowls of pasta.

The menu is chef Neil Perry’s ode to Italy, inspired by his extensive travels there. You’ll dine the country’s culinary breadth, from heartier fare such as osso buco and bucatini alla amatriciana, to lighter dishes, many seafood-skewed.

House-made pappardelle cavorts with hunks of fork-tender braised pork, oregano and shaved Parmesan, while two King George whiting fillets arrive with stunning simplicity, their skin scorched from the chargrill, the flesh sweet and succulent.

Desserts are as razzle-dazzle as the décor. A dense baked chocolate mousse is lightened with caramelised pear and pear sorbet, while Rosetta’s tiramisu remains one of the town’s best.

Served by smart white-jacketed waiters, you’ll eat and drink from a long and pricey – mostly Italian – wine list under the gaze of Italian stars, whose photos adorn the walls. Perhaps adjourn to the all-weather terrace set with white wicker chairs, but really, it’s all about that lavish bella donna of a room.

Must-eat dish: Pappardelle with braised pork
Instagram: @rosettaristorante