The shimmering, crisp skin of red emperor lands garnished in salmoriglio (oregano, parsley, garlic and lemon). The pearlescent flesh is prepared to beautiful perfection. It’s just fish, but when cooked so well it’s all you need.

Rosetta, the contemporary Italian stallion from Melbourne, has joined the Sydney stable of the Neil Perry-led Rockpool Dining Group and it is, quite frankly, a magnificently sexy beast.

Situated in the Harry Seidler-designed Grosvenor Place at the Circular Quay end of the CBD, Rosetta is a large venue seating more than 200. But being separated into a bar, mezzanine and terrace, the space is surprisingly intimate. By day, light streams through the floor-to-ceiling windows. At night, the eatery takes on a dark and moody feel, with gold-trimmed tables and velvet chairs. Waitstaff are slick and welcoming, and the wine list champions Italy, with some Australian heroes too.

When I am handed the menu at Neil Perry restaurants, I tend to feel there are too many dishes. In most eateries, the bigger the menu, the less chance of excellence. But the rule never seems to apply in Perry’s establishments. I doubt it would matter what you ordered. There’s rarely, if ever, a hiccup.

At Rosetta, head chef Richard Purdue celebrates the simplicity of Italian cuisine in a most enlightened manner. House-made ricotta is soft, silky and allows the nuttiness of broad beans to shine. Pino’s smoked garlic salsicce stars on thin, charred pizzette. Sweet spanner crab and parsley entwine with tagliolini, garlic and chilli as if each strand was brushed individually in the sauce. Then pale pink rounds of Torello rosé veal rump, simply grilled on rock salt, benefit from a side of well-dressed green leaves and herbs.