Well, the Perry-led Rockpool Group are at it again. Rosetta, the contemporary Italian stallion from Melbourne, has joined the Sydney stable and it is, quite frankly, stunning. In true Perry style, quality ingredients and simplicity are at the fore – much like the best of Italian cuisine.

Housed in the Harry Seidler-designed Grosvenor Place at the Circular Quay end of the CBD, Rosetta is a multi-level venue seating more than 200; though it is cleverly separated into a bar, mezzanine and terrace, making each area surprisingly intimate. By day, light streams through the floor-to-ceiling windows creating the ideal atmosphere for a long lunch. At night, the eatery takes on a twinkly feel, with gold-trimmed tables and emerald velvet chairs glimmering in the mellow light.

Waitstaff are in over-abundance, it feels like there’s a staff member per guest and as such, they are as precise as the Mercedes F1 pit stop crew. So too are the huge kitchen brigade led by lead chef Richard Purdue, who celebrates the simplicity of Italian cuisine in a most enlightened manner.

Soft, silky house-made ricotta allows the nuttiness of broad beans to shine. Sweet spanner crab and parsley entwine with tagliolini, garlic and chilli as if each strand was brushed individually in the sauce. A spot on shimmering, crisp-skinned red emperor lands garnished in salmoriglio (oregano, garlic and lemon). Then pale pink rounds of Torello rosé veal rump, simply grilled on rock salt, benefit from a side of well-dressed green leaves and herbs.

Rosetta is not for those on a budget, but then again, quality comes at a price.

Must eat dish: Red Emperor, salmoriglio
Instagram: @rockpooldininggroup