There’s a level of standard that marks Neil Perry restaurants as a cut above so many. It’s in the manner of the staff, the ambience set, the attention to detail on the plate and an unwavering dedication to quality produce and simplicity. If you combine this modus operandi with Italian cuisine, it’s a match made in heaven. Rosetta Trattoria, previously Rosetta Ristorante, has loosed its tie a little, but the same service and dedication to delivering the very best remains. In fact, our former best new restaurant, circa 2017, has a renewed energy that’s not to be missed, especially with the addition of arguably the best pizzas in the CBD.

Housed in the Harry Seidler-designed Grosvenor Place, the dining room boasts extensive natural lighting with a curved wall of floor-to-roof windows, and a colour palette inspired by the Amalfi Coast – think emerald green and sapphire blue upholstered chairs, brass fixtures and honey-coloured woods. There’s a mezzanine and alfresco bar, too, and an overall sense of grandeur meets everyday trattoria. Start with warm artichoke caponata, yellowfin crudo with salsa verde, and a simple, light and delightful calamari fritti with lemon mayonnaise. The pizza is fluffy, blistered and charred – and although the classic margherita is hard to go past, chef’s San Marzano, pork sausage and chard is also an absolute go-to. Pasta features heavily, from pork ragu with buccatini to tagliolini with spanner crab and chilli. Then gremolata-crumbed garfish is served with tomato and capers, while large Moorland lamb cutlets arrive on a bed of polenta. Mamma mia, it’s good.