The 1885-built Rothwell’s building is now home to a classic grill, complete with lamps for each table and salt and pepper grinders. Start perhaps with steak tartare, French onion dip with deep-fried, ultra-crisp baguette, or a pleasing prawn cocktail, with the crustaceans chopped up and mixed with avocado, cucumber and a tangy cocktail sauce.

Pastas such as tagliarini with sea urchin, caviar, butter and chives beckon, as does a seafood platter, Moreton Bay bug in thermidor sauce and duck cassoulet. A shared beef Wellington in its golden pastry lattice with red wine sauce is in hot demand. Five steaks may include a very tender rib fillet and all are served with a tower of crunchy onion rings, celeriac remoulade and a selection of mustards, horseradish and béarnaise sauce.

A shared apple tarte tatin is golden with loads of caramel and big apple chunks and is a fine conclusion. Service by grey-uniformed staff is pleasant and courses are well timed. Start with a martini, visit the hefty 350-bottle wine list and end with an Armagnac for the complete experience.

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