Ruby Red Flamingo is the 1970s revisited, right down to the brown cups, beige plates and light pop on the stereo. It’s noisy with chatter, it’s fun, and the outdoor tables are the place to be on a warm night.

The Italian menu here is best shared and the playful waiters are ready to talk you through the options. Do not miss the pie-shaped polenta filled with ’shrooms and spinach dripping with provolone, fontina and parmigiana – it’s melt-in-the-mouth amazing and this starter dish is worth the visit alone.

Stop talking and close your eyes to savour the gnudi – spinach and ricotta balls in Napolitana sauce – it’s also sublime.

Not every dish hits the mark, the swordfish carpaccio drowns the fish in mustard and citrus; the chicken and turkey ragu is light both on meat and flavour.

Wine is key to most Ruby Red nights and the list is edited down to a tight collection of Australians and a wider list of Italians that cover all bases. Craft beers draw in some unexpected delights including a Bruny Island whey stout.

Dessert reveals another star dish – the Tortino Cioccolato… fresh berries and cream on a slowly liquefying (gluten free) chocolate pudding that is as messy as it is tasty.

This is a place of more hits than misses and a vibe that leaves you with memories of an exuberant night out.