Ryne: Old English for ‘a journey’ that invokes the circle of life. And what a journey it’s been for the Yorkshire-born chef Donovan Cooke we now call one of our own.

Having steered Crown’s The Atlantic through its seafood-laden waters for the past six years, Cooke has returned to his Marco Pierre White-honed French roots with Ryne. It’s an ambitious salvo from the chef/owner across the bow of fast-casual restaurants, staking the claim for the timelessness of classic cooking and technique.

A menu of two, three or seven courses is pitched both at 30-something locals and those with longer memories who will recognise Cooke from his Est Est Est and Luxe days in the ’90s – with the latter more firmly in the sights of the worldly, pricey, wine list.

To start, chicken liver parfait comes blanketed in a supple Madeira jelly, perfect to spread across an excellent house-baked French loaf.

Showing a sense of humour, the tuna ‘pizza’ topped with jamon and black garlic ‘olives’ is as fun as it’s tasty.

A fat tile of confit Ora King salmon is as rich as a Kardashian plastic surgeon, with blood orange keeping the excesses in check, while lamb with spring peas and broad beans transforms homely flavours into a powerhouse as only a professional can.

To finish? A picture-perfect chocolate souffle with raspberries many ways is the only way to come full circle on this journey.

Must-eat dish: Tuna ‘pizza’
Instagram: @rynerestaurant