Chef and owner Nigel Ward’s tight menu — four starters, four pastas, two mains and three desserts — is wonderfully satisfying. And a short all-Italian wine list fits the brief.

First Sicilian olives, olive oil and house-made bread land on your table as a welcome. Fennel and capers bring out the best in kingfish crudo — cut larger than normal to enjoy the texture. Chillies and marjoram add an exclamation to oozing burrata.

Shaved celeriac, porcini and pecorino are brought to life with the citrus pop of pomegranate.

Long tongues of pappardelle lick gorgeous chunks of slow-cooked pork shoulder ragu before prawn and leak risotto steals the show.

Wind up with a lemon tart with a real zesty punch. Unreal

Must eat: Pappardelle with pork shoulder ragu