When it comes to high-end Japanese, Sake Brisbane is considered one of the city’s favourites. But top chef Neil Perry believes the Eagle Street Pier restaurant has been selling itself short.

After his Rockpool Dining Group was acquired by the Urban Purveyor Group
(behind Sake, as well as other venues including Bavarian Bier Cafe) last year, Perry set his sights on taking the Sake restaurants across the country to the next level, with the aim eventually to expand the brand overseas.

That vision has inspired a new menu and dishes such as toothfish with miso butter, scampi tartare and a Japanese take on Korean favourite bo ssam.

Some of the old favourites, particularly in the sushi department,  have remained, but it’s the new offerings that provide excitement.

Nori crisps snap against fresh kingfish and tuna as a hint of chilli from togarashi sneaks through. Grilled baby octopus also provides a fiery spark courtesy of spice-rubbed daikon.

Teriyaki lamb cutlets are a little salty, but a fresh cabbage slaw offers balance, while beef tataki with a shiso dressing finds the equilibrium between salinity and sweetness.

As for the fuzzy-looking steamed prawn dumplings with a tangle of noodles and prawn meat, they are as tasty as they are cute.

A reinvented and more refined cocktail and wine list encourages a lengthy perusal, but flights of quality sake and umeshu are hard to resist.

Service is almost there. The team is friendly, passionate and well-informed, but a little slow in pacing from the kitchen and on clearing dirty plates. Thankfully, those stunning river views and bespoke Japanese fit-out make the wait a pleasant one.

Perry’s revolution is just beginning, but initial signs indicate it’s on track.