Soft, feminine cherry blossom wallpaper offsets sharp masculine lines and sleek timber details, while vibrant sake barrels stacked into a wall provide a screen that separates the intimacy of the restaurant from the buzz of the bar. Sake is unmistakeably Japanese and the type of venue that easily lends itself to intimate dinners or boisterous celebrations through its diverse seating options.

Celebrity chef Neil Perry is behind the modern, fusion menu, which runs from classic sushi and sashimi to Asian mash-ups, such as a Japanese take on Korean favourite bo ssam (spiced pork belly).

Diners are encouraged to share dishes, such as nori crisps which snap underneath a colourful dice of kingfish and tuna before the heat of togarashi finally cuts through the fatty fish; or beef tataki with a shiso dressing, which finds the perfect sweet/salty equilibrium. Fuzzy-looking steamed prawn dumplings featuring a tangle of noodles hiding sweet prawn meat are welcomed into the mix alongside more substantial offerings, including the likes of slightly salty teriyaki lamb cutlets balanced by a fresh cabbage slaw.

A refined cocktail and wine list encourages lengthy perusal, but it’s the flight of curated sake or umeshu (Japanese plum wine) that really ramps up the clean flavours of the food.

Service is almost there. The team is friendly, passionate and well-informed, but a little slow in pacing from the kitchen and on clearing dirty plates. Thankfully, those stunning river views and bespoke Japanese fit-out make the wait a pleasant one.

Perry’s revolution to take the Sake restaurants across the country to the next level is just beginning, but initial signs indicate it’s on track.

Must-eat dish: Steamed prawn dumplings
Instagram: @sakerestaurant