Star chef Neil Perry has put his magical touch on the menu and they’ve even brought back old favourite head chef Shaun Presland to round off a significant and magnificent bag of changes at Sake.

The Rocks outpost of this modern-Japanese brand has always been the big night out destination – especially for those pushing pens in the city all day. Sake had become better known as a big night out rather than a culinary destination per se, so change was inevitable. Last year, Urban Purveyor Group acquired The Rockpool Group to create Rockpool Dining Group and put Perry in charge of a Sake makeover.

It retains the best bits of that clubby, party at your mates place vibe – and the bar finds those that really love to bend the arm – but with renewed focus in the kitchen the party is on the plate, not just in the room. In line with Perry’s mantra of quality produce first and technique second, the Japanese inspired menu let’s best in class produce shine. A delicate kombu rice cracker houses the sweet raw scampi and trout roe. Thick slices of kingfish gets a kick out of jalapeno and twang from yuzu. While slow-cooked Cape Grim short rib plays the lead role in a make-it-yourself bo ssam – simply add beef to baby gem lettuce cups and top with confit garlic and ssam sauce. A deep rich mushroom hotpot is worth the visit alone and so too a miso cured Glacier 51 toothfish – an application that brings the best out of the wagyu of the sea. Sake’s dark den persona now comes with an alluring feast worth celebrating.

Must eat dish: Miso-glazed Glacier 51 toothfish
Instagram: @sakerestaurant