Quality produce and a chef’s ability to let it tell its story on the plate should never be underestimated. There are some chefs that merely talk the “produce” talk, but chef Neil Perry is the embodiment of walking it too.

Last November, Urban Purveyor Group acquired The Rockpool Group to create Rockpool Dining Group, charging Perry with the immediate task of waving his magic tongs over the menu of Sake. Of late, Sake had became better known as a big night out rather than a culinary destination. The food, a contemporary spin on Japanese, bordered on pedestrian.

But that can’t be said any longer.

As a tantalising starter, delicate kombu rice cracker houses the sweet, creamy delight of raw scampi crowned with trout roe. Then jalapeno adds sharp, round spice to slivers of  aided by the zing of yuzu.

Slow-cooked Cape Grim short rib lands as a make-it-yourself bo ssam. Add the beef to baby gem lettuce cups and top with confit garlic and ssam sauce (where can I buy this?) to create the perfect bite.

Though the miso soup is terrific, the shiitake broth in a mushroom, daikon and silken tofu hotpot steals the show, with depth, texture and satisfaction.

There is no doubt Perry’s alterations are a hit, such as toothfish with miso butter in bamboo leaves. But untouched menu items, such as the California rolls – ours the soft shell crab spider maki – need a bit of love. Waitstaff are affable, efficient and knowledgeable, easily helping to whet patrons’ appetites.

Sake still has that dark den feel about it, and the electronic music adds to that perception. But it seems Perry and his penchant for produce-driven fare is putting it on the culinary map too.