Diners may be treated to a between-the-flags vantage of an iconic stretch of Surfers Paradise sand, but Seaduction is no typical tourist experience.

Behind floor-to-ceiling glass on level two of Peppers Soul resort, it’s a cool sanctuary far from the sunburnt swathes of holidaymakers. Snaring one of the region’s most experienced fine-dining chefs in James Fiske further elevates the experience.

The menu under-promises and over-delivers; a lot of work goes into a few forkfuls. While by no means the only worthy offering, seafood is the rightful star. Sample subtly sweet baked spanner crab with dill mayo, and yellowtail kingfish with a zesty lick of lime and cool complement of cucumber and apple.

The fish couldn’t be in better hands. King George whiting is pan-roasted and stuffed with scallops, carrot and pickled radish, while baked snapper is offset by salt-roast celeriac and the faintly bitter snap of warrigal greens. Many of these highlights are available on a tasting menu.

In the glass, spritzes and froses capture the summer vibe and there’s a sprawling wine list with a particularly strong field of French fizz – what else would you drink with oysters dressed in ponzu and cute little 30g tins of oscietra caviar served with blinis?

Sure, there are Gold Coast restaurants with flasher fitouts, but few that can rival Seaduction’s view – from the plate to the horizon. Hot tip: request front-row seats and time your dinner booking to catch the sunset.

Must-eat dish: Baked Fraser Island spanner crab with dill mayo and olive lavosh
Instagram: @seaductiongc