In the case of Sean Moran’s beachside gem, it’s a steady commitment to honest cooking that lets peak-season, farm-fresh produce do the talking.

The daily chalkboard menu follows the appetiser-main-dessert format, offering three options within each course, lovingly detailed by the casually professional staff as if they were a poem. 

And it’s true – lyricism can be found in a bowl of just-crisp crudites, earthy chickpea dip and the malty house-made sourdough scrolls that get proceedings under way. Here home-style meets modern, with the line-up changing daily depending on what’s available from Moran’s own farm at Bilpin and other ethically sound suppliers. There’s a coastal daydream of a dining room where time-honoured benchmarks like chubby honey prawns, endlessly tender roast chicken and wobbly baked custard continue to shine.

Weather permitting, there’s also a chance to dine al fresco to make the most of dazzling ocean views. If there’s a better place in town for a long Sunday lunch, then it must be a well-kept secret. Don your finest linens, bring your own worthy bottle of wine and raise a glass to ageing gracefully.

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