If ever a restaurant embodied the very essence of an Australian neighbourhood local, Sean’s Panorama would take the prize.

Hidden off Bondi’s main drive but with good sea views, Sean’s could take advantage of location and play a straight bat with average food, but chef and owner Sean Moran’s ideal of modern Australian is astounding.

Barramundi is cooked on the bone and arrives on sweet baby leeks. Preserved lemon adds exclamation. Watercress and avocado make a poached marron sing and seared albacore and salted mackerel get balance from sea vegetables. The chef’s signature roast chicken comes with parsnip puree, before a pear and passionfruit trifle takes you back to your childhood. A wine list is available but it’s also BYO.

Must eat: Any version of his roast chicken