And Seed follows through with an experience that speaks of the locale. For openers, an attention-seeking leather-bound drinks list cleverly splits about 30 gins into Australians and Internationals, plus a dedicated tonics list. Rieslings, for which the Clare Valley is renowned, are divided into growing areas.

With a centrepiece bar encouraging drinking-hour drop-ins, it seems food might be secondary. Not so.

Beyond a few bar-food staples, there is plenty of adventure, focusing on deep to earthy flavours. Even the brussels sprouts take a hazelnut mayo and honey twist.

A highlight is octopus, charred and tender, under a tumble of sweet and savoury flavour bursts dominated by black corn, black vinegar and black garlic. The prettiest dish is fall-about beef brisket with silky celeriac and charred onion curls.

Miso duck on a super-salty jus, and ho-hum duck-fat spuds, miss the mark but then dessert triumphs. A jiggling buttermilk panna cotta draws smiles, as does its luxurious texture balanced by warm roasted quince and pannatone crumb. All spoons in to scrape another plate clean.