Shobosho is the star of the bar/restaurant strip at the heart of Adelaide’s CBD, humming with warmth and energy even when the city is almost deserted on a chilly Sunday night.

The compact space is split into three zones: timber booths along one wall, large centre tables, and stools pulled up to a bar where the drama of a fire-based Japanese and Korean kitchen makes for a great spectator sport.

The menu starts with small bites, such as the delectable salt, vinegar and nori potato chips, wagyu tartare and a slightly heartier bowl of raw kingfish, edamame and black rice, then moves into more substantial dishes including three different styles of dumplings.

Main courses, all designed for sharing, are where the meaty cuts from oven, grill and spit shine: wood- roasted lamb belly, Korean BBQ beef short ribs, roast teriyaki chicken, wood-grilled flat iron steak.

All are served with distinctive condiments and accompaniments, like miso creamed corn and wood-baked shallot bread with the chook, or the spicy “typhoon shelter” crumble on a dish of stir-fried kale. The one main fish dish is barramundi baked in a nori case.

Can’t decide? Be guided by the chef’s choice of a set menu for $50/head or the $75/head banquet. Service is top-notch so don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations from an excellent drinks list that includes a fine selection of wines and a range of sake and Japanese whiskey.

For a quicker but still rewarding bite, pull up a stool at the street-side yakitori grill, Sho.