Like one of the premium bottles of champagne in Signature’s monumental 6000-bottle cellar, there’s a luxury and effervescence to this hotel restaurant.

Though it boasts all the hallmarks of a fine diner, it refuses to call itself one, trying to remain approachable. And the pricing certainly enables it to do so, with an exceptionally keenly priced a la carte menu, and arguably “cheap” degustation offering.

The extensive array of wine from the cellar is also affordable, unless of course you’re talking some of the big ticket items like a 2008 Louis Roederer Cristal or magnum of 2009 Penfolds

Grange.

A vegan menu is in play, but unless you have to, stick to the omnivorous offering, starting perhaps with some of the finest caviar available, before, say, caramelised scallops with melting pork belly atop creamed celeriac with apple gel for that classic Euro-flavour combo.

Mains may include the Middle Eastern-inspired lamb, met by smoky eggplant puree, caramelised yoghurt and chargrilled zucchini; while desserts show the most imagination and creative of the classically influenced menu, with sweets such as a cumquat and mandarin number with pop rocks for a playful twist.

Service is knowledgeable, if a little fussy, but for a date night location where dim lighting and a touch of opulence are called for, Signature answers.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Lamb with eggplant puree