Yum cha is one of Australia’s best-loved brunch traditions. Why have French toast when you can have prawn toast, or crepes when there’s cream-filled mango pancakes to be had? And just like breakfast has moved to become an all-day affair, so has yum cha – at least, in some parts of town.

Silver Territory in Burwood is fast becoming famous on social media for its late-night service, claiming to be the only restaurant in Sydney to offer yum cha at night.

For dumpling lovers, it’s a dream. Pan-fried pork and chive are great and all, but sometimes the cravings call for soup-bellied xiao long bao, silky-skinned siu mai and heartily-filled har gow.

On a rainy Monday evening, Silver Territory shines brightly thanks to its strobe-quality fluorescent lighting. Double white clothed tables are yum cha-ready, neatly set-up with tea cups, chopsticks and soy sauce bottles, everything you need to have a good time.

What is missing, however, are the roving carts. The restaurant brings them out during the day, but retires them at night so as not the confuse the other diners.

Guests are offered two menus, one for dinner and the other for yum cha, with 24 small plates to choose from.

Within minutes of ordering, stacks of bamboo steamers arrive. Translucent white wrappers burst at the seams with prawn and spinach, sweet scallop and a tumble of diced mushroom and veg. A bowl of black bean riblets demand to be nibbled. Drop your chopsticks, and go in with both hands.

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The deep-fried items are particularly good, having arrived straight from the fryer, without doing the extra rounds. There’s prawn rice paper rolls crusted with golden-fried sesame seeds and crunchy deep-fried prawn dumplings that deserve to be dunked in sweet and sour sauce.

Yum cha may mean ‘drink tea’ but that doesn’t mean you can’t also have wine, which feels more appropriate now than the morning sitting. Fragrant jasmine tea is poured at the table, and we double down on a red. Bring your own or pick out a bottle from behind the neon-lit bar.

For dessert, the mango pancakes are the clear winner. Light, fluffy and freshly wrapped in bouncy crepe, they easily defeat the coconut and mango pudding. Be careful not to over order as you’ll also get a complimentary platter of orange wedges and homemade sesame cookies to finish.

While all the classic dishes are on the menu, you won’t find any of the limited run specials. It’s less fun without the cheong fun. Other notable absences including white bait and egg custard tarts, which are also MIA.

The service isn’t particularly pushy either. Our waiter was friendly and accommodating. Not once did he try to offload a dish or add a cheeky stamp to our order card.

If you’re craving yum cha food, then Silver Territory is an excellent option. But if you’re after the ambience, the hustle and bustle, the lazy Susans and then steaming carts, then you’re better off coming back in the morning.

Related review: This yum cha palace delivers Sydney’s best dumplings a la cart