Take the absence of a menu here as a sign you’re about to be cosseted. Each of the seven courses of the tasting menu is delivered to the table with care and obvious pleasure by various chefs, and the care is evident on the plate, too.

Who knew butter could get any better before the arrival of mascarpone butter on a lidded dish to swipe over house-made sourdough? Or that the sourdough could get any better before you try the second round of bread? Yesterday’s bread, as it’s called, is made with twice-baked sourdough leftovers kneaded with spent coffee grounds into a fresh loaf – savoury caramel in a springy crumb.

The seam of invention that underpins the cooking here is typified in the Ballina spanner crab given texture with crisp discs of radish and bathed in a tomato butter that delivers sweet acid and milky richness, set off with the pop of salmon roe. Just gorgeous.

Rangers Valley chuck tail, meanwhile, is a beef masterclass, the caramelised crust encircling flesh with the texture of butter enriched by a mushroom and Marsala sauce and sharpened with a charred half onion.

Further proof of the lengths the kitchen goes to in pursuit of original flavour is found in the mead-vinegar custard. House-made mead is turned into vinegar, then magically worked into the silky custard, served with frozen berries and strawberry compote. It’s a triumph.

Sommelier Bridget Raffal complements the food with wines as carefully considered as the produce. This bijoux suburban eatery should be on everyone’s dining bucket list.