From a warm greeting on entry, through to the vigilant white-jacketed service team, to the musician tinkling on the grand piano and his silky voiced accompanist, this is like nowhere else around town.

The food is brutal in its simplicity. Order a steak and it will arrive simply on a plate, alone, no adornments, just a tender, expertly cooked $70 piece of sirloin, say. Or a $200 kiwami, if you’re pushing the boat out. Sauce is extra. Sides are extra. John Dory is crumbed and comes with half a lemon and a small bowl of tartare and it too shines in its no-frills state. 

Perhaps tuck into some risotto or pasta, but this is an establishment resting its reputation on the quality of its produce. There are also oysters, seafood cocktails, platters and sashimi – and the kitchen doesn’t do too much to overcomplicate it.

Desserts aren’t fussy either but the strawberry tart is the business. Add in the plush banquettes and elegant design and there’s no way you’d expect this to be cheap and it isn’t. But if looking over the menu doesn’t give you a dizzy spell then SK may well be just the grill you’ve been looking for.

To read our full list of reviews for Queensland, head here.