Summer means fish and chips, but do it minus pesky sand and seagulls at The Smith’s new sidekick.

The Prahran pub reopened in July after a six-month, multi-million-dollar renovation, now double the size with an atrium covered by a retractable glass roof and jungle greenery.

And since September – just like Stokehouse and The Atlantic before it – it also boasts its own modern fish and chip joint.

Open daily, Smith & Chips has a separate entrance off High St, with seating at stools inside and a highshine industrial fit-out.

The classics are there. Flake and fish of the day come either beer battered or grilled, as well as good chunky chips alongside. But it is the global hit parade of seafood dishes that sets this place apart.

Snapper ceviche is wonderfully fresh and humming with chilli to load onto tostada chips with avocado, while house-made dumplings – pleated and plump with a punchy salmon and prawn mix – are a treat, swimming in black vinegar and chilli oil.

Soft-shell crab is also hot stuff, encased in crisp tempura with a sprightly green chilli dressing.

You can get your chook fix here, too. Chilli-spiked rotisserie chicken comes as a whole, half or quarter bird, and there’s fried Korean-style morsels swaddled in a steamed bao bun with a spicy gochujang (fermented red chilli paste) mayonnaise.

Kids are also covered with rockling bites or calamari strips served with a side of chips or salad.

Take away, or dine in and drink up from a tight list of fare-friendly South Australian drops.

Smith & Chips is a thoroughly latter-day version of the nostalgic fish-and-chip shop that will hopefully continue to pass with frying colours over summer. And not a seagull or speck of sand in sight.