There’s trippa alla Romana and meatballs in vodka red sauce and you’ll find pots of squid and saffron stew bubbling away alongside beef ragu in the kitchen.

For the past five years Shannon Martinez has been changing what plant-based dining looks like in Melbourne and her merry band of meat-free believers have packed out her Brunswick Street restaurant since day dot, here for 2019 takes on those old classics and serious cocktails shaken with intent.

This is veganism for those yet to fully rescind the pleasures of the flesh, where flavours are as bold as the EAT VEGAN neon cross that lights up the dining room. 

A punchy, pungent “bagna cauda” accompanies broccolini and cauliflower smoky and charred from the grill while other simple veg pleasures, such as chickpeas with cima di rapa on polenta, abound.

That “tripe” is cloud mushroom braised until tender yet still textural and tossed through maccheroni topped with salty parmesan, and that beef ragu with pappardelle is rich and comforting. To finish, there’s the tiramisu that’s as decadently creamy as Nonna’s finest. 

It’s super cool and loads of fun and staff are seriously good – polished and professional but warm and always welcoming. 

Smith & Daughters might in many ways be preaching to the converted, but it’s more than just a good vegan restaurant. It’s good full stop. And that’s why it’s packed.

Must Eat Dish: Tiramisu