Not only has it survived the departure of star couple Martin Benn and Vicki Wild, but it also copped a bad run of Covid lockdowns and staff shortages. More than 12 months on and executive chef Luke Headon has shaken most of Benn’s DNA from the menu and is now serving his own spin on first-class fare.

Society is where you can try things that may otherwise be out of reach – sip Pol Roger or Montrachet by the glass, try $55 caviar martinis made with nori butter washed vodka or take your pick from an impressive cellar boasting back vintages of Romanee-Conti and 1945 Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes that’ll have you remortgaging the house.

That wow factor extends to the food, namely the silky bluefin tuna lapping in a brilliant egg yolk emulsion with immense depth of flavour and that mind-bending textural celeriac and nashi pear dish.

Some larger plates are hohum on the yum, while technically correct, but desserts are more delightfully dramatic, especially the chocolate-moulded Metropolis that mirrors 80 Collins’s architecture. Society packs plenty of style and substance for those keen to be seen.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.