In its sleek new digs, Soi 38 sets the scene for any occasion. Date night? Birthday dinner? Friday night nosh with your work mates? You’ll feel right at home.
That is until your sojourn to Thailand begins. The menu makes a point of each dish’s origin – the crowd-favourite pad thai, for example, is from southern Bangkok, while a punchy miang kham (more on that later) hails from the east. Hate decisions? Strap in for a shared three-course Tour of Thailand.
Personable staff will recommend a (very good) cocktail before entrees arrive. That miang kham gets the tastebuds dancing, the bite-size bundle of blue swimmer crab dressed with ginger, zesty lime and coconut ready to be wrapped in its betel leaf pouch.
Other highlights include tender pieces of barbecued chicken with an addictive tamarind and lemongrass sauce, and whole fried baby garfish, decorated with a herby green mango salad dressed in nam jim talay that’s hot enough to remind you that you’re not in Kansas anymore.
Try to save room for a curry, such as a sweet and satisfying choo chee with unctuous pieces of kangaroo tail, that’s all begging to be mopped up with roti. Dessert, if you can, might be their twist on creme brulee, made with banana and coconut.

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