It’s a fair few clicks north of the harbour and the name means ‘upside-down’ in Italian, but this new eatery from the Sydney Restaurant Group (Ormeggio, Lumi Dining) is far from out of place. In fact, it’s a welcome addition to the food scene and the northern beaches should be rejoicing.

The kitchen and bar sit perched over the dining room on a mezzanine (hence the name), as guests settle in to communal tables or along a wooden bench leaning on large cushions pressed against the curvaceous glass wall perimeter. Here, restaurateur Alessandro Pavoni, from Brescia in Italy’s north, and head chef Victor Moyer (ex-Ormeggio) are utilising the beauty of woodfire ovens to add a twist to classic Italian fare, and it’ worth getting out the GPS for.

Start with the puffy and addictive ‘Pavoni’s garlic bread’ – so good it carries the chef’s name, then mushroom and goat’s cheese accentuates a stellar beef carpaccio. Meanwhile, woodfired capsicum tart is all sweet, smoky bliss, and so too are mussels and prawns tossed in a parsley and tomato sauce.

Split king prawns get a kiss from the flames followed by a refreshing kick from apple and chilli, while a whopping 550g pork cutlet benefits from white onion puree and chicory. For dessert, a large, solid slab of tiramisu is one of the best in the state and a must for lovers of the Italian staple.

With affable, sincere Italian staff to guide you through the generous menu and the all-Italian wine list, this Newport newbie will turn your world upside-down, for the better.

Must eat dish: Spinach and cod pie
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