Bordered by lush tropical plants, the lively, clamorous dining rooms split over two levels are run by knowledgeable and amiable staff, delivering food out of the kitchen at pace, with charm and cheek. The menu is pan-Asian, but largely contemporary Cantonese, with Chinese favourites like a wagyu-filled xiao long bao tricked up with squid ink-dyed black wonton wrappers.

Chilli is dominant throughout much of the offering, say, in a soy sauce-enriched duck ragu with an addictive paste of peppers piled on the side; or in the must-order spicy wok-fried pork belly, where the pig comes as meltingly soft slabs of meat coated in a salty-sweet sauce of black bean and plum with macadamias and candied chillies for extra heat.

Extinguish the burn with a sensational take on a Southside cocktail infused with ginger and lime, or an Australian or Asian beer. A solid collection of alcohol-free drinks is ideal for those not imbibing, while for those who are, the global, heavy-hitting wine list offers plenty to entice – particularly at the top end. This is food designed to make diners stand to attention in a setting that’s just as commanding.

To read our full list of reviews for Queensland, head here.