Ten years on and Spice Temple remains one of the city’s hottest dining experiences. The regional Chinese restaurant draws heat seekers from across the city like moths to a flame. Follow the glow downstairs where you’ll find sultry interiors, jet black and imperial red like the inside of a lacquered jewellery box. You won’t find your Tuesday night takeaway order on the menu, which skips over the Cantonese classics for lesser-known regional fare, hailing from provinces including Yunnan, Jiangxi, Hunan, Sichuan, Guangxi and Xiangjiang.

Steamed flathead fillets are cooked to pearlescent perfection, the supple fillets bathed in a glistening broth of sesame and salted chilli that coats the throat with a tangy burn. Meanwhile, spicy fried eggplant in ginger and garlic dressing dials it up with a tickle of Sichuan peppercorns and pickled green chilli, along with a salty-sour splash of Chinese black vinegar. There’s one more region that Perry explores, and that’s Australia. His menu references the ‘Oriental’ experience of Perry’s youth, with prawn toast cut into soldiers, the sweet seafood filling not completely obliterated by the fryer, as per local tradition. There’s also an Australian-style chow mein, which sees a glossy pork relish suspended in a safety net of deep-fried crispy noodles, with sauce so addictive that you’ll finish it by the spoonful. The drinks list includes more than the usual imported beers. You’ll also find 100 wines on offer, as well as 12 stellar cocktails inspired by the Chinese zodiac.