Push through the discreet side street door (it’s a TV screen with footage of a flowing curtain) and descend down the spiral staircase into this subterranean spice journey through the lesser known regions of China. Once inside you could be in any city in the world – London, New York, Shanghai – but much to our joy, it’s in Sydney.

Spice Temple is Neil Perry’s dark, sultry and seductive contemporary play on the fragrant, spicy and textural food of China’s Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan, Jiangxi and Guangxi regions. But in true Perry style it’s a lighter, more considered interpretation – but don’t think it’s lacking in substance, big flavours or big chilli hits. Because this place is an absolute knockout – especially for groups looking to go next-level when sharing food. And par for the course in a Perry establishment, the service is spot on and the wine list is absurdly large.

Get started with a cocktail at the bar then move into the darkest dining room Sin City has to offer and embrace the pickled, fermented and spicy ride. The delicate just cooked flesh of poached white cut chicken gets a lip-numbing whack from Szechuan peppercorns. Rich northern-style lamb dumplings have moorishly toothsome pastry, while a more refined version of the classic prawn toast – fried white bread, prawn mince and sesame seeds is clean, but lets the sweetness of prawn sing.

Hunan-style steamed blue eye trevalla gets a twang from pickled green chillis, while deep-fried hot, sweet and sour pork gets a good dose of heat from Szechuan peppercorns and acid courtesy of black vinegar.

Dishes with heat are marked on the menu, and even if you’re not a spice fiend make sure you dive head-first into the leatherjacket drowned in heaven facing chillies – ie a truck-tonne of them – it’s a surprisingly aromatic balanced and lasting heat.

Must-eat dish: Kung Pao Chicken
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